Camino del Norte part 1: Bilbao - Oviedo

You arrive in Bilbao, a city where the past of steel and shipbuilding lives alongside modern art and quiet neighbourhoods. If you’re early, you can wander through the old town along the river Nervión. In the narrow streets of the Casco Viejo you taste the atmosphere of the pintxos bars. At the Guggenheim you may pause for a moment, watching how the light plays on the titanium. Don’t forget to get your first stamp; a small gesture that makes the journey truly begin.

You leave the centre of Bilbao behind and gradually ride out of the city. At Portugalete you cross the river mouth and continue onto a long cycle path that brings you to the beach of La Arena. The first encounter with the Cantabrian Sea sets a different rhythm: salt, wind, open space. The path along the cliffs towards Ontón is quiet and beautiful, with deep views over the coastline.
Just after the border of the Basque Country you enter Cantabria. Castro Urdiales appears with its small harbour, the church of Santa María on the rocks and an old lighthouse. It’s a fine place to stroll along the quay in the evening.

Today the sea remains your companion. You ride alternately through woodland, along cliffs and past small beaches where fishermen leave their boats on the sand. It’s a short stage, but you are almost constantly going up and down. Parts of the route are unpaved and slow you down, but that’s no hardship.
Before reaching Laredo, you see the long arc of Salvé beach. The old town is small but lively. At the end of the afternoon the promenade is a pleasant spot to sit and watch the surf.

The day begins with a short boat crossing to Santoña, a town known for its anchovies. From the water you see the sand spit of Laredo in full length.
After Santoña you cycle past the beaches of Berria and later Noja. These are broad coastal plains where a light morning mist often lingers. Via San Miguel de Meruelo and the quiet hamlet of Güemes, you turn inland.
At Somo you board another boat. The crossing to Santander offers a lovely view of the city, the bay and the shimmering Botín Centre. In Santander you can wander through the old centre or walk the Paseo Marítimo in the evening, where fishing boats gently knock against each other.

It takes a little time to ride out of the city. After that the landscape opens and you cycle through gently rolling countryside with small hamlets, apple orchards and chapels that appear unexpectedly by the road.
The route avoids busy roads and seeks the peaceful hills. Santillana del Mar is the natural end of the day: stone houses, a Romanesque collegiate church and a village square where the afternoon slowly fades. One of the most beautiful villages of Cantabria, and you notice that in the silence of the narrow streets once the day visitors have gone.

You cycle through a varied landscape of green hills and short stretches of coastline. In Comillas you immediately see Gaudí’s work: El Capricho, playful and colourful.
Then you ride towards San Vicente de la Barquera, over bridges that span the wide tidal zones of the estuary. The harbour still has something of a fishing village, especially in the early morning.
Later in the day the inland becomes hillier again. No heavy climbs, but it adds up, and you feel the nearness of the Picos de Europa. Bustio itself sits quietly along the river Deva — a small border town where Asturias begins.

You quickly climb towards Colombres, where the stately villa Quinta Guadalupe stands out. A reminder of the “Indianos,” Spaniards who returned from Latin America.
Via Andrín you ride uphill and then descend to Llanes. Here you find a fishing harbour, old streets and the colourful Cubes de la Memoria at the pier.
The route then follows a series of beaches: Palombina, Torimbia, San Antolín. Busy in summer, often almost empty outside the season. After La Isla you turn inland again, past railway crossings and small hamlets.
Ribadesella is a quiet coastal town. The prehistoric caves of Tito Bustillo lie nearby and tell a story far older than the Camino.

A short day, but with plenty of moments to stop. Santa Marina is a wide beach where early surfers are already in the water. After that come Vega and later Arenal de Morís, more remote and peaceful.
In Colunga you can choose a detour to the Jurassic Museum (MUJA). On the beach of La Griega you’ll find dinosaur footprints: large round impressions in the rock, surprisingly tangible.
The final section leads through a landscape that feels typically Asturian: apple orchards, green meadows and small hamlets where cider is still made in the traditional way. Villaviciosa is the heart of that cider culture.

You leave the sea behind for good. The first kilometres are quiet. In Valdediós, a pre-Romanesque church and a former monastery lie in a silent valley — a place that invites you to walk around for a moment.
Then the steep climb to Alto de la Campa begins, a final real effort. At the top you notice the landscape shifting: fewer meadows, more small villages and outer districts. Via Pola de Siero you approach the city.
We’ve chosen a route that avoids heavy traffic for as long as possible. Still, as soon as you ride into Oviedo, you feel the journey closing. At the Cathedral of San Salvador — for centuries an important place for pilgrims — the Camino seems to gather itself again. Oviedo is warm and welcoming, with cider bars where the waiter pours cider from high above his head.

After breakfast this journey ends.
Those who wish can continue cycling: the road to Santiago de Compostela truly begins here.

• Northern Spain has a mild climate. The best period to cycle this route is from May to September, with the most pleasant temperatures in spring and autumn.
• A monthly overview can be found on our climate page: Climate Northern Spain
• For a broader overview, you can also consult our general climate page: Climate Spain

• Bilbao is easily accessible by plane or train, both via Bilbao Airport and the railway station.
• At the end of the trip, you arrive in Oviedo. From there, you can travel back to Bilbao by train or bus.
• The nearest airport is Bilbao (BIO).
• If you arrive at another airport, such as Santander (SDR), Asturias (Asturias Airport – Ranon, OVD), or Valladolid (VLL), there are good connections to the starting point in Bilbao.
• Current timetables and travel times can be found at renfe.com.
• If you travel back to Bilbao, there are good bus connections. For timetables and reservations, please visit alsa.es.

• Difficulty level 3 for touring holidays are cycling holidays that are well manageable for the average touring cyclist. The rides are not too long but can include some elevation gain. The route may include longer sections of unpaved terrain (gravel), but is always well rideable. There may be 1 or 2 days where the ride is somewhat longer and more demanding. On average, distances are between 30 and 50 kilometres per day and between 200 and 400 metres of elevation gain per day.