Camino de Santiago part 2: León - Santiago de Compostela

Welcome to León, a city with a famous cathedral full of coloured glass and remnants of Roman walls. In the Barrio Húmedo you find narrow streets full of small bars where pilgrims and locals mingle.

You leave the larger city behind quickly and cycle through open countryside with small villages and farms. At Hospital de Órbigo you cross a long medieval bridge, one of the Camino’s iconic landmarks. You then ride into the Maragatería region, known for its stone houses and distinct traditions. Astorga is compact and surprising: next to the cathedral stands the bishop’s palace by Gaudí, and in the streets you’ll find chocolate shops recalling the town’s history as a “chocolate capital.”

Today you face a true Camino classic. You climb gradually into the Montes de León, passing villages like Rabanal and Foncebadón, until you reach the Cruz de Ferro: a simple iron cross on a wooden pole, surrounded by stones left by pilgrims from all over the world. Then comes a long descent into El Bierzo, with green valleys and vineyards. Via Molinaseca you enter Ponferrada, where the large Templar castle recalls the time when this order protected the pilgrims.

The day begins gently, through the fertile El Bierzo valley, known for its wines and chestnut forests. You pass Villafranca del Bierzo, with its churches and river beach, and then follow the Valcarce valley. The road gradually climbs, passing small villages and castle ruins.
The final ascent to O Cebreiro is serious work, but you are rewarded with a village perched on a ridge, with stone houses topped by thatched pallozas and an ancient church connected to a Eucharistic miracle. Here you also cross the border into Galicia.

You leave O Cebreiro along a rolling ridge and then descend into the green Galician valleys. Via Triacastela you can choose the quiet route past the large Samos monastery or the more direct road through Sarria. The forests smell of wet grass, eucalyptus, and earth.
In Sarria, many walkers begin their final 100 kilometres; on the bike you already have a long journey behind you. Through small country roads you eventually reach the heights above the Miño River and descend into Portomarín, a village that was moved stone by stone when the reservoir was created.

Today’s route winds through the typical Galician patchwork landscape: short climbs, shaded forest paths, lanes past farms, and fields with cows. You pass Palas de Rei and Melide, where many pilgrims stop for pulpo a feira, simple but delicious octopus.
The Camino crosses small villages with stone crosses and granite horreos — grain stores raised on pillars. Arzúa is a long, stretched-out town known for its soft cow’s milk cheese — a good treat at the end of the day.

The final cycling day begins among eucalyptus trees. It is a sequence of gentle ups and downs, with more and more pilgrims around you. Through villages such as O Pedrouzo and Lavacolla you ride toward Monte do Gozo, “the mountain of joy,” where you see the cathedral towers for the first time.
From there you roll into the city and suddenly find yourself on the Praza do Obradoiro, among other pilgrims who have reached their destination. The rest of the day is for the cathedral, the old town, and perhaps collecting your Compostela.

After breakfast, depending on your departure time, you may still have a moment to wander through the narrow streets of the old town. At the market you see piles of fish and vegetables from the region, and in the cafés people eat breakfast at an easy pace. You might step into the cathedral one more time or sit on a terrace to watch new pilgrims arriving in the city. Then the journey home begins, and the Camino remains as a memory, and perhaps as an invitation for another time.

• Northern Spain has a mild climate. The best period to cycle this route is from May to September, with the most pleasant temperatures in spring and autumn.
• A monthly overview can be found on our climate page: Climate Northern Spain
• For a broader overview, you can also consult our general climate page: Climate Spain

• If you arrive at an airport, such as Santander (SDR), Bilbao (BIO) or Valladolid (VLL), there are good bus connections to León.
• If you travel back to the airports of Asturias (OVD), Santander (SDR) or Bilbao (BIO), there is a morning bus from Santiago that takes you to León, Oviedo, Santander or Bilbao.
• For timetables and reservations, please visit: Alsa

• For this trip, difficulty level 3 is based on the use of an e-bike. If a regular trekking bike is used, the difficulty level is 4.
• Difficulty level 3 for touring holidays are cycling holidays that are well manageable for the average touring cyclist. The rides are not too long but can include some elevation gain. The route may include longer sections of unpaved terrain (gravel), but is always well rideable. There may be 1 or 2 days where the ride is somewhat longer and more demanding. On average, distances are between 30 and 50 kilometres per day and between 200 and 400 metres of elevation gain per day.
• Difficulty level 4 for touring holidays are cycling holidays for the experienced and well-trained touring cyclist. The rides are longer and include significant elevation gain. There may be 1 or 2 days where the ride is more demanding. On average, distances are between 50 and 70 kilometres per day and between 600 and 1000 metres of elevation gain per day.